Tourism success but what about the tuk-tuks?

A research project to identify how the cumulative effect of changes within the tourism environment will impact on a particular sector, in this case tuk-tuk drivers in Cambodia. The research has been funded by the Scottish Funding Council’s Global Challenges Research Fund to support cutting-edge research which addresses the challenges faced by developing countries.

Tourism in Siem Reap, Cambodia has grown considerably since the early 1990s when it was perhaps mainly seen as one of the checkpoints on the backpacker South East Asia route. Vastly increased air links and extensive development of hotels within the city have seen tourist numbers and related revenue rise significantly in recent years. The one constant though has been the reason for tourist interest in the city. The nearby Angkor Temples are what draws tourists in ever growing numbers. There is little doubt that in economic terms, tourism in the city is very much a success story.  However, as with many similar examples around the world, there is debate as to the equitability of these economic benefits.

At first glance, tuk-tuk drivers should be among the main beneficiaries of the huge increase in tourist numbers (The Cambodian Hotel Association puts international tourist numbers to Siem Reap at 1.3 million for the first six months of 2018; compared to 1.05 million for the same period in 2017). These drivers are very much in the front line of the tourism industry, are extremely visible and a trip in a tuk-tuk is seen by many tourists as an iconic experience to be enjoyed while in South East Asia.

Unfortunately, for many of the tuk-tuk drivers, including the twenty spoken to for this article, the current situation is more complex and concerning. Despite the significant growth in visitor numbers in recent years, every one of the twenty drivers spoken to insisted that it was becoming more difficult to find clients on a regular day-to-day basis.  Part of this is perhaps explained by the significant increase of unskilled workers who have been attracted to the city for the potential money making opportunities as a tuk- tuk driver, with a current estimate of 6,000 tuk-tuk drivers in the city.  However, the more significant reason appears to be one of demographics.

Quite simply, the most obvious development in Cambodian tourism has been the significant increase in Chinese tourists. According to The Cambodian Ministry of Tourism, 2017 saw just over one million Chinese leisure tourists visit the country, compared to only 138,000 in 2010. This growth is part of a wider Cambodian strategy of being “China Ready”, which has involved a range of heavy Chinese investment across Cambodian industry.  A significant majority still travel as part of organised tour groups including local pre-packaged bus travel to sites such as the Angkor Temples. As highlighted by many tuk-tuk drivers, there is little need or desire among these tourists to hire a tuk-tuk for any duration.

A more established conundrum for tuk- tuk drivers is the decision to be fully independent or to have a relationship with a hotel or tour group. There was debate among the drivers about the most favourable option with points made regarding the degree of freedom within each option, the likelihood of securing clients, the working hours, and the financial outcomes of each.

For many it came down to personal lifestyle choices; for example, Sopanha who wished to spend time with his young family so was happy to be fully independent, although he recognised this made his income more precarious. Several other drivers suggested a relationship with a hotel removed the pressure of seeking out clients personally and had particular concerns over their lack of foreign language ability and general confidence required for such a tactic.

The sheer increase of drivers in the city has obviously made conditions for the independent driver more challenging than ever before. However, the decision to enter agreement with a hotel or tour group is not without its problems. Such a relationship may make potential access to clients easier as the hotel acts as the facilitator and conduit between driver and client. However, the driver is not actually employed by the hotel so is not guaranteed work or pay. Furthermore, in most instances, the driver has to pay a monthly fee to the hotel or tour operator in order to have access to potential clients. The figure quoted ranged from $40 to $60 a month. Drivers also criticised the practice of hotels taking a significant proportion of the client payment as a commission or booking fee. Drivers estimated they actually received around 50% of what the client paid.

There is one final recent development which has had a major detrimental impact on the opportunities for tuk-tuk drivers in Siem Reap. Starting in Singapore, but now operating across the region, including Siem Reap, ‘Grab’ is one of several competing companies offering ride hailing apps, through modern versions of tuk-tuks. Basically the tuk-tuk Uber. This new competition was highlighted by drivers as the one they feared the most. Several commented that tourists favoured them for reasons of cost, efficiency and safety. One tuk-tuk driver, Kimsan, reflected that whereas traditional tuk-tuks were once an exciting, novel part of the overall experience, it was very likely that modern, fun versions such as “Grab” vehicles were now seen as the novel option for trips around the city or to the Angkor Temples.

The tuk-tuk drivers displayed a general philosophical acceptance of their current situation, with little anger; just resignation and a lack of confidence that their circumstances will improve any time soon. Khemara summed up the views of many by claiming “I think there will be no more tuk-tuk drivers in Siem Reap within two years.” Even with the most pessimistic view, it is difficult to see such an extreme and final outcome for this iconic style of transport coming to pass. However, there is little doubt that the tuk-tuk drivers of Siem Reap are another group of workers undergoing significant and often worrying changes to their working life due to wider tourism development and changes in their city.

The changing tourism environment has shaken up the existing tuk-tuk industry in Siem Reap. Tourist demographic changes, new disrupter competition, over-supply of drivers, and unequitable industry relationships have culminated in the current challenges facing this informal workforce. However, there is still a demand for tuk-tuks and it is to be hoped that the industry and its problems are recognised and supported long before Khemara’s fears coming to pass.

• Due to the original conditions of the research, all names within have been changed
• Photos and interview translation provided by Pheaktra Kong of  Siem Reap Translation Services
• Cooperation was provided by Independent Democracy of Informal Economy Association (IDEA)